Tales of Lima – A Stroll through Barranco.

Barranco is the bohemian soul of Lima. It maintains a flavour of the past which vibrates every day and evening until the early hours of the morning. I confess that this is the area of Lima I mostly frequent in the evenings for fun and music….. but such escapades will be revealed in some future post.

This post will be dedicated to just one hour in this district. It is the afternoon. I have just dropped my grandson off for a class, and so have about forty-five minutes to walk around this emblemic district. Please join me on my stroll.

Parking the car and dropping off Paulo.

Paulo, my grandson is greeted by his teacher and I start my walk.

It takes about ten minutes to reach the centre of Barranco. I pass by the historic tramcar which used to run for a few blocks on the very reduced track that still remains.

Now
Before

I arrive at the Plaza de Armas the central square, typical of many small town squares in Peru.

It needs to be said that Barranco used to be a thriving, little seaside town before being taken over by the sprawling Lima Metrópolis.

I love this busy little plaza, with its fountains, it’s bandstand and colonial styled buildings.

I am tempted, as always to go into the famous “bodega bar” Juanito’s for a beer and a “Butifarra”, but I now only have half an hour, and well, I am driving……..perhaps later tonight. There is no sign outside, but why? Everyone knows where Juanito’s is!

I pass by the old colonial buildings with their patios.

and leaving the square, head towards “El Puente de Suspiros ” (the Bridge of Sighs). On my way, the building walls display photos of how Barranco used to be, a reminder of the magic that Barranco has always had.

On the other side of this alley, is a street portrait of the famous singer and composer Chabuca Granda. She was a dearly loved artist whose songs about Lima and Barranco are part of Peru’s cultural heritage.

So important was she in the heart of the Peruvians that she figures on on the ten Sol bank notes.

A few yards further and the old bridge comes into sight.

The bridge crosses a ravine bordered by steep sides. The ravine cuts into Barranco and a path descends steeply down towards the beach far below.

On a normal day there are relatively few people walking down towards the beach. 0n each side of the ravine are rows of restaurants and bars.

However on bank holidays and week-ends, this path is packed solidly with people coming in from the districts around Lima wanting to enjoy some sun and bathe in the ocean.

Rather than climb back to the bridge again, I often take the steep path up the south side of the ravine as a short cut back to the car. The walls are covered with a wide variety of street murals.

Just before starting this climb I stop to admire, once again, this mural of a traditional Lima knife grinder.

The mural is very life-like, and I recognised him immediately.

The last time I saw him working was in the market of the neighbouring district of Surwuillo.

Looking down, still a long climb ahead.

At the top, we find a mural of Suzy Díaz, a “vedette”. Her succcess in life had, shall we say……..more to do with her volupuous shape rather than her intellectual capacity. However, she was elected by popular vote as a member of Congress. Indeed, she did introduce a few projects of law, more than some of her illustrious but incompetent colleagues…..in the land of the blind!!!!!!!!……..

Almost at the top! Getting my breath back!

Sometimes on my walk, when I am feeling lazy, I just cross the bridge and walk along the top of the other side of the ravine, thus avoiding all the stairs and enjoying beautiful views of the ocean.

The other side of the bridge.

This pathway is also lined with restaurants and leads to a Mirador overlooking the ocean.

But look at the time…….the class is finishing and Paulo will be waiting for me. I race back and get there just in time. So, seat-belt on, and off we go, dropping him off in the neighbouring district of Miraflores where I live too.

And tonight! Back to Barranco. Juanito’s, here I come!

I’ll go there on my bike. It takes about twenty minutes along the cycle path that runs along the coastal cliffs. Perhaps the wobbly return could take a few minutes more….Salud!!!!!

On my way home.

Two short galleries showing some more Barranco Street art and ………people!

The Street Art

The People

20 responses to “Tales of Lima – A Stroll through Barranco.”

  1. Beautiful Lima ~ what a treat it is to see Barranco through your lens!

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    1. Thanks for your comment. I love the place!

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  2. Beautiful.

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    1. Beautiful……. and fun too.

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  3. Thanks for the walk through Barranco. We did a similar route when we were there a couple of years ago. We stayed in Miraflores but after exploring, we thought we would stay in Barranco next time. Maggie

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    1. Miraflores and Barranco are close together, so easy to go from one to the other If you come to Lima the Chilcanos in Juanito are on me!

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  4. I haven’t been to the Barranco district before, despite having visited Lima before. I had planned to go during a layover visit on my way to Argentina, but alas, the then-protests ended up canceling my tour, so I never went out of Lima airport. I hope to return to check out more of Lima, though!

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    1. Rebecca, when you come I will invite you to Juanito for a Chilcano and Butifarra!!!!

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  5. LOVED!!! I mean LOVED!!! This tour of yours. You gave us an excellent glimpse of the area accompanied by your witty writing (the mural of the knife grinder is AMAZING!!). Those juanitas must just love having you around 😜. Salud to you my friend!!

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    1. Juanito is an old traditional Lima bar/ tavern. Not many of them left now. Juanito ran the bar for during his whole life. He died a few years ago but his sons keep it going. I want to do another post just about this special place. Thank you so much for the appreciated comment. Tomorrow off to a Festival in Puno on lakr Titicaca bear the border with Bolivia.

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      1. Ian Jerry Murrant Avatar
        Ian Jerry Murrant

        Well done Geof. Your photos really grasp the soul of Old Barranco.

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      2. Good to hear from you Ian. Writing this from Arequipa on way to Puno. You are an expert on Barranco. I wonder how many hours you have spent there over the years. Bet you miss it! Ian, you figure in my previous post about Cotopaxi. Revealed that you are the guy who slept on the top of the Izuzu Trooper half way up the Volcano!

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  6. Nice walk; great to be part of it, Geoff! 🙂

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  7. This looks like a fantastic place to hang out on lazy afternoons.

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  8. Bright colors, times and people! Thank you for sharing with us!!

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  9. What a lovely tour Geoff. Sladja and I very much hope to do our own exploring around Barranco someday. The landscapes… the art…. the greenery, the lovely cafes and bars, it’s all so appealing. Plus I’m always a sucker for colonial buildings. Just to let you know that there are around 5 broken images within the article spread throughout the first half. But love that intoxicating collage at the end.

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  10. For someone like me, who has never been out of England, I so enjoyed this tour of Barranco. What a stunning place. I love the street art amongst many other of the places you mentioned. The street art of the knife grinder is quite remarkable. I’ve often wondered how the Bridge of Sighs got its name. Do you know, Geoff? Your photos are wonderful, and reading about your experience makes me feel like I’ve been there. What a treat! Thank you so much for sharing your experience, my friend. X

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  11. Thank you again, Geoff, for your enthusiasm and expertise in “Limaese.” 🙂

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  12. I love the little patios, too, Geoff. And the wall art is stunning. I love that cities are cleaning up old building and giving us other reasons to walk.

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